One of the reasons, I think, that Nigerian men in their 20s have a limited palate that’s very American now is because they did come of age during the time Americanism was at its height. We grew up in a post-military regime in the 90s and early 2000s when people were fleeing to the US in droves. There was an expat culture that was being returned to Nigeria. Palates were adapting to fit that transition of cultures… I really do feel like Nigerian men are the generation of burgers, fries, Coca-Cola, and chicken wings.
–Samiat Salami, food enthusiast.
One way or another, we have gotten into burgers, fries, and fried chicken. It’s what children order when you take them out and several adults are into them as well. Once upon a time, Nigeria had a palate that flirted with British flavours, thanks to colonialism. Our parents were only vaguely familiar with hamburgers and cheeseburgers. They were exotic foods, things only Americans ate. Many older people grew up when Nigeria was still very British-leaning. Some grew up when the British were still here, and some grew up in Nigeria immediately after the British left. They had a British education. Our English was the British kind, which has since metamorphosed into Nigerian English. Our food, especially foreign cuisine, was British-leaning as well. Some of our foods have British names, which are poor approximations of similar British food with the same colour or texture, because why is our asaro yam porridge?
The shift away from British cuisine in Nigeria has been a gradual and deliberate process, reflective of Nigeria’s journey towards asserting its cultural identity post-colonialism. Despite the historical ties to Britain during the colonial period, Nigeria has moved away from strict adherence to British culinary norms.
During the late 80s, 90s, and early 2000s, enterprising Nigerians, who had been armed with passports and ambition and had ventured across the Atlantic, returned home in droves. They brought back American sensibilities and tainted palates. They wanted burgers, fries, ketchup, mustard, and many other American foods Nigerians weren’t familiar with. The running joke during that time was that they didn’t enjoy these foods but had to keep up their Aremicanism; they had to differentiate themselves from local Nigerians who had never gone overseas. We consumed American media too, from their music to their TV shows and movies, and even news, so it made sense for their food to infiltrate our cuisine.
As with every foreign thing that arrives in Nigeria, we put our spin on most of these foods. If we were going to eat burgers and fries, we might as well put our twist on it. There’s nothing remiss about adding a generous sprinkle of crayfish to the mayonnaise sauce that goes on a burger. Burgers have undergone a metamorphosis, with many variants now including suya burgers that pack that aromatic heat Nigerians love. Apple pie can easily become plantain pie because plantains are cheaper and more accessible than apples, and between you and me, plantain pie is way more delicious. Taco Tuesdays, which Americans borrowed from the Mexicans, are becoming more and more popular in Nigeria, but with a twist too. Nigerian tacos are spicier.
One of the most prominent ways in which American influence is evident in Nigerian cuisine is through the introduction of fast food culture. The proliferation of American fast food chains, such as KFC and Pizza Hut, has left an indelible mark on Nigerian dining habits. The convenience and speed of fast food have resonated with the urban population, especially in Lagos and Abuja, leading to a surge in the popularity of burgers, fried chicken, and pizza. These items have seamlessly integrated into the Nigerian culinary landscape, becoming go-to options for those seeking quick and familiar meals.
The American influence on Nigerian cuisine is evident in the way food is marketed, presented, and consumed. Western-style supermarkets and grocery stores have become prevalent in urban areas. Packaged and processed foods, a hallmark of American food culture, have found their way into Nigerian households, influencing dietary habits and preferences.
However, it’s important to note that the American influence on Nigerian cuisine is not a one-sided affair. Nigerian culinary traditions have also made their mark on the American palate, with the increasing popularity of dishes like jollof rice, suya, and moi moi in diaspora communities and beyond. This cultural exchange creates an evolving food landscape that reflects the interconnectedness of global culinary traditions.
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In conclusion, the American influence on Nigerian cuisine is a multifaceted phenomenon that has left an enduring imprint on the way Nigerians eat and perceive food. From the ubiquity of fast food to the fusion of flavours and the adoption of cooking techniques, the interplay between American and Nigerian culinary traditions has resulted in a vibrant food culture that continues to evolve. As both influences continue to shape and enrich each other, it is a testament to the global interconnectedness of food and culture.